Thursday, June 19, 2008

XI'AN - THE OLD CAPITAL OF CHINA, AND THE FIRST CENTER OF THE UNIVERSE

In case you did not see the FRONTLINE special on PBS, you can click on the link in the right hand column and watch it online. This two hour special explores the lives of nine young people in the rapidly changing China. It is spot on and gives a very good slice of modern life in China. Someone commented to me the other day, "How much artistic freedom can there be in China when everything is painted Red?" Good question, but it shows the general out-dated view of China that is unaware of the emerging NEW China. All is not painted Red in China anymore. This is why it is important for everyone interested in their future on this planet to factor in the NEW China.

This PBS documentary catches some of the phenomena that describe China today. You may be surprised, and perhaps "moved" by the happenings in this renewable ancient land. It will be interesting to see if the NEW China can absorb the shock of global culture after the Olympics leave town. We are likely to see a kind of dual reaction. The young may demand greater openness and visionary experimentation, while the old order may try to consolidate what some perceive to be a worn out model that must continue to fade away. Whatever happens, it will be a prolonged struggle, as is China's way. My guess is that China will continue to align itself with the global community and the social and spiritual changes flowing in its direction, albeit in an inimitable Chinese fashion.

There are some very smart people in China who know that to turn a ship of 1.4 billion people onto a new course will require not only wisdom but time and space as well. Let us all hope that this process will be both peaceful and successful.


Connie and I went to see the Terracotta Warriors. It was hard to believe we were actually standing there, looking at one of the most curious spectacles on the earth. But, then again, it's China, the land where spectacles and surprises come at you from every direction.

Xi'an is the old capital of China, and was considered the center of the universe. In downtown Xi'an there is a bell/drum tower, which was considered the center of Xi'an. Now Connie and I can say that we have been to the center of the center of the universe, and back. Beijingers, however, would dispute that, since they consider the Forbidden City the center of the universe. I suppose it all has to do with where the emperor resides. But, no problem, we went there too. S0, either way, we were at the center of the center. Odd that two centers of the universe could exist so close to each other in space. Something to ponder in one's more meditative moments.


This is a staging area where archaeologists and specialists are still reassembling the broken shards of terracotta back into the whole warriors they once were. Almost all of the warriors and horses have been smashed by people who desecrated this burial site, and need reassembling. The wooden parts of the structure rotted away long ago and the tile and brick roof collapsed, crushing even more of these figures.

So the work goes on in these opened pits, but new pits will not be excavated until archaeologists can invent a way to stabilize the colors of the paint on these figures. As I understand, the Chinese are working with the Germans in an effort to arrest the irreversible damage light causes to pigments. Apparently, when they were created, everyone of these soldiers was brightly painted. At present, three pits stand open for viewing. What language can describe such a vast terracotta army? I am at a loss for words.


This class of youngsters in the International School in Xi'an is just one of three classes we taught in Xian. Thanks to the generous contribution of my colleague and next door neighbor, John Mohan, we took some art-project items for these kids to work on. This particular one was an etching project, where the kids scraped off a white coating to reveal a multitude of color beneath the surface; something like what happens to people in real life. These students scratched their names and designs into the surface. These were beautiful creations and the children really enjoyed their experience. Even the middle school and high school students loved it. Thanks John! This project was a winner!

Connie and I also did a reading/painting together - twice. Both included Connie reading from the Chronicles of Narnia, and me painting a picture of Aslan. In both sessions the painting was given to one of the children to take home. Boy, were they excited about that! The nice thing was that most of these particular students spoke fluent English, so they really understood what Connie was reading. One little Chinese girl kept coming up to Connie and me and hugging us. If that doesn't warm your heart, then you don't have one. These kids were so excited that someone would do something special, just for them.


In the famous Muslim Quarter, Connie purchased a personalized, hand-painted work of art from a local vendor. Her father is a consumate master in the art of Chinese painting and calligraphy, and one of this woman's specialities is writing poetry, wise sayings and scriptures onto these scrolls. Here the she is writing a verse from the Jewish scriptures, Joshua 24:15 - "As for me and my house, we will serve the Lord." My mom use to say that all the time, and we thought it was fitting for our own home too.

More on Xi'an tomorrow.