Tuesday, June 24, 2008

WANDERING AND PONDERING AROUND THE CITY OF NANCHANG

With her new Chinese hat securely in place, Connie deflects the sunlight and sports a new look. This is a hat worn by farmers and railroad workers. There are other shapes for different jobs and different locations across China. Connie is working on acquiring a collection of the coolest hats - in time. Together, we wander the streets and markets of Nanchang, getting a feel for the sights and sounds of this important city.

This seamstress works right on the street. Walk up, tell her what you need and "POP" she will whip it out in no time. One of the young ladies we met had a beautiful long dress made from scratch and it cost her all of eight and a half dollars (USD). Everything is less expensive in China. Talk about getting the bigger bang for the buck!


In the Porcelain District, much like the Pearl District, shops specialize in one product. You can find anything you want in these places, and things you didn't even know existed. The prices range from very reasonable to things only royalty can afford. It is really worth going to these sections of town next time you are in Nanchang. Don't laugh. I never thought I'd be there either. You never know what bit of information might come in handy in the future.


This yard was beautiful. I have no idea what this place was, but they had water lilies (lotus plants) growing in buckets - covering the entire yard - dozens and dozens of them. The water in these five-gallon tins was only a foot deep, or so, but the lilies stood straight up out of the buckets, four feet high. I'd never seen anything like it. I don't know if this was a special kind of water lily or not, but these lily pads and pink lotus flowers were stunningly beautiful. The texture and visual effect of a yard full of these graceful plants was astounding.


This was such a lonely old bicycle. It was like a faithful dog, waiting for its master, outside a store on Porcelain Street. I couldn't resist the irony of a bicycle in front of a traditional Chinese landscape - stuck in the heart of a huge city. The bike seemed like it was part of the background painting, or like it might have been remembering a former life in the countryside. Still, bicycles are very much part of city life. One of our tour guides called China, "The Kingdom of bicycles."


Here are some of the literally thousands of samples of magnificent porcelain in Nanchang. I grieved to have to leave this pot on the shelf. It was not all that expensive, maybe a hundred bucks in U.S. dollars . . . and boy was it ever exquisite. Mamma mia!


The pot on the left features a Phoenix on one side and the Dragon on the other side. These two mythological creatures represent the female-YIN (Phoenix) and the male-YANG (Dragon), and symbolize balance/harmony in the world. These are still very central concepts in Chinese culture, and I have come to appreciate these ideas, and to understand them as core values within their society. I think they are good values. They create a kind of "lens" through which the Chinese see the world.

The pot on the top right side of this shelf was unique and I loved it - especially its misshapen spout. It was also a steal of a deal. My problem is that I live in a small apartment, so how would I ever display such jewels if I had purchased them? There is no way I would put this beautiful item into common use. It would remain a work of visual art only. It is just too unique to reduce to everyday tasks.

It reminds me of a verse in the New Testament, where Paul talks about "some vessels" being made for honor and some for common use. This is a vessel of honor, in my view. Nevertheless, If I could work it into my budget, I think I would save my pennies and send for it.

Most of these stores are experts at shipping porcelain around the world, so it is conceivable that it could reach me in one piece . . . yet, I keep worrying about that thin neck.


The air quality of the Chinese cities we visited is notoriously poor, and Nanchang, for me, was one of the worst. The first several days we were there I had serious sinus problems - the worst in years. I think it was the combination of pollution and "all that blooms in spring."

We were, thankfully, sent rain to clean the air. I was not only relieved, it felt like I had been healed. The air quality improved dramatically all at once. The pollution and pollen was cleaned from the air and I could breath again. Then, it kept raining for two more days. But that was okay with me. I like rain, and I like umbrellas too.

Traditional buildings; they are something else. This one had been in this family for many years, although the family did not actually live in these rooms anymore. They had build new rooms (behind where I was standing), that were greatly updated, yet they kept the old building for practical uses, and perhaps for purposes of nostalgia.

You can see the floor of this traditional building. It was dirt, covered by a very smooth layer of moss. One of the men in our group, an architect, said, "This family has a different relationship with the ground than do westerners." You would probably cover the ground with concrete, but not these country folks. You can also see some of the traditional items in the house.

There was a lot of writing on one of the walls, and old pictures if Mao Zedong (pronounced just like it appears) and Zhou Enlai (pronounced: Jo En lie) that had faded with age. Perhaps the room had been used as a classroom at one time.

This structure included several rooms - a storage room, a living room, a bedroom and an old kitchen; which we would probably not recognize as a kitchen at all. It is difficult to imagine anyone having lived in this building. It gave me a new appreciation for China's history and why China is changing so quickly today. Nevertheless, the post and beam construction was expertly assembled, and the edifice was structurally sound. It has stood proud for many years, and will remain in place for the foreseeable future.


Other traditional structures in that village featured the brick/block construction with a tile roof on top. Brick and tile does not stand up well against earthquakes. They are too rigid and quickly crumble. I thought how that might teach us in life, that the best construction for one's life is based on flexibility. Buildings (and people) who grow brittle tend to break and crumble under sudden shock and turbulence.


Of course, this building's magnificent forms and decorations are profound examples of Chinese love for architecture. It shows the care and pride Chinese people put into these kinds of gorgeous, enduring structures. The newer architecture is not being built with such "values. Unfortunately, in the mind of many contemporary architects, fancy, fast, and cheap is the way to go. Permanence is no longer a general value in China. The NEW is valued more highly than is quality. Personally, I find this a disturbing feature of the NEW China's attitude about development.

This is a corner of the first temple building at the Buddhist temple. I love great architecture and this is some of the best in the world. The craftsmanship and the perfection of these structures are more than impressive. These building are not only consummate works of art, they are intended to be permanent structures. They have been carefully designed to endure the test of time and the stresses of nature . . . and now they are being lovingly preserved. Perhaps this is why they survived Mao's Cultural Revolution. These buildings are simply too magnificent to destroy. This makes me wonder how one's faith ought to be reflected in its related architecture.

Architecture was once extremely important to the Christian church. It isn't so much anymore. Now people are delighted to meet in school gymnasiums - ugh. What a low level has been reached by American Christians in this area of their faith. I am thinking Christians everywhere might want to revisit the idea of building something that survives the test of time, the stresses of nature, and buildings that speak something more relevant toward the nature of God than does a school gymnasium.

I know this is just my personal opinion on the matter, but the name of this blog is called "PERCEPTIONS," and, well, this is my perception about this subject. It may not be the only one that's valid, but I will gladly own it and stand by it, because I believe it IS both valid and important. I have patiently listened to the utilitarian views of those who prefer gymnasiums to cathedrals, and I get it. However, I think I will abide with my own view on this subject. The architecture of faith ought to be magnificent because of what it represents. In this case, I think the Buddhists got it right.


There is a lake in the middle of Nanchang city. In that lake is an island, and on that island is a pavilion, to which people stroll, and where they go to relax and get away from the pressures of their lives.

Men with fishing poles line the heavy masonry banks, and city-dwellers paddle around the placid lake in various kinds of small boats. It is all very picturesque and lovely. I thought, as we walked by the lake, "What a wonderful place of respite Nanchangians have at their disposal." Parks are important to one's sanity in the city. The wise might take a clue from the practices of this ancient civilization.

This picture is of one of those picturesque boats. It looks so peaceful, moored up to these concrete steps, but if you could look behind me, you would see a vast complex of city buildings that surround the lake - an indication of just how tightly this lake is locked "inside" the city. A busy thoroughfare, with honking horns, roaring buses, and a massive humming population of millions lies not ten feet from the top of those stone stairs. I ponder, "Do the fish in that lake know they are actually living in a thriving metropolis?" "How much like those fish are we?" "Are there greater realities all around us, of which we are completely unaware, and incapable of comprehending?" "Is there someone fishing for us right now?" It's a thought.

TOMORROW: BEIJING, THE GREAT WALL, AND THE FORBIDDEN CITY.

(Visit Daniel's website at http://www.danielriceart.net)